Yet another Alcohol Stove

Alcohol stoves are cheap, lightweight alternatives to business backpacking stoves. If your camp cooking is more sophisticated than that, or if you might want to cook for more than 1 individual, this stove might not be for you. They are used primarily for boiling water to rehydrate dehydrated meals.

In my quest for the right alcohol stove, I have experimented with a number of designs. My own hardly-scientific tests present that it boils water quicker than any other alcohol stove I have tried. I name it the Yaas stove, since it is One more Alcohol Stove. After studying how these stoves function, I designed my very own.

The Yaas stove works on the identical principle as the Cat stove and the Pika Stove. And is a variation of the Sqrl Stove. It weights about 1/2 as much because the Cat stove.

Brian Robinson, whose father designed the Cat stove, explains why chimney style alcohol stoves, such as the Cat stove and Yaas stove, work higher than pressurized alcohol stoves.

The vent holes in my Cat stove are too large, causing the Cat stove to leak gasoline if a full ounce of gasoline is poured into it. You need to conduct your personal tests earlier than using this stove in the back country. With 1 ounce of gas I was capable of bring 2 cups of water to a rolling boil in about four minutes 20 seconds. The Yaas stove burns as sizzling as a Cat stove, but will hold 2 ounces of fuel. There are various components that affect boiling times and gasoline requirements.

After this page was posted, I was contacted by Deems Burton, the designer of the Pika stove. After some discussion we agreed that whereas the Yaas stove may burn hotter than his Pika stove, and convey water to a boil faster, the Pika stove makes use of less fuel. If you are looking for a gas efficient alcohol stove, and are willing to attend a minute or two longer for water to boil, the Pika stove could be a better stove for you.

[Update] I’ve recently tried changing the dimensions of the top vent hole on the Yaas stove. I’ve been able to reduce the amount of gas wanted to bring water to a boil, although I haven’t reached the efficiency of the Pike stove. This means that the amount of gas wanted may be lowered, though 1/2 ounce of gas was not sufficient to convey the water to a boil. My hardly scientific tests present that with a 1 1/2 inch or 1 1/four inch vent hole, the Yaas stove will deliver two cups of water to a rolling boil in about 5 1/2 minutes on one ounce of gasoline, and will proceed burning for one minute longer. With a 1 inch vent gap, the Yaas stove doesn’t put out sufficient heat to convey water to a boil. The new template has a sample for cutting a smaller prime vent hole.

The Yaas stove is designed to burn denatured alcohol solely. White gas won’t burn hot sufficient in this stove to boil water. Ok, it’d, but I’m not going to strive it. Making an attempt to burn other fuels, akin to white fuel, will end in a large orange flame that makes a sooty mess.

As a result of alcohol stoves cannot be shut off mechanically, it’s best to use the identical precautions with an alcohol stove that you’ll with any open flame within the backcountry. Alcohol stoves is probably not allowed in areas that have restrictions on fires, and will not be secure in excessive winds.

Three 12 oz aluminum pop cans.
The Yaas stove template.
Epoxy (optionally available).
Fiberglass insulation.

Also:

Numerous scraps of wooden, or other objects that may stack as much as 7/eight inch tall and 1 7/16 tall respectively.

Step 1: Minimize out the burner gap.

Stand one of the pop cans bottom facet up. Use the knife to attain the can around the inside of the ridge on the bottom of the can.

Score an X inside this circle.

Reduce alongside every rating from the middle of the can to the ridge.

Break out the four items leaving a spherical hole.

Step 2: Lower down two of the cans.

Reduce the pop can with the burner hole all the way down to 7/eight inches tall from the bottom. Cut the opposite can 1 7/16 inch tall from the bottom of the can.

The best method to mark the place to chop the cans is to search out one thing that is the proper height, or a number of objects that may stack up to the correct height. Reduce the can alongside this mark with scissors. Or proceed rotating the can until the knife point cuts via the can. Place the flat aspect of the utility knife on prime if these items with the point barely hanging over. Stand the can next to the knife level, and rotate the can whereas pushing it into the knife level.

On this illustration I am utilizing a scrap of 1 x four on prime of a scrap of 1/8 inch masonite. To measure the bottom I exploit two pieces of 1 x four and set the can on prime of a scrap of 1/16 inch sheet metal next to them. 3/4 + 3/4 – 1/sixteen = 23/16 = 1-7/16.

An alternate is use the strips on page 2 of the template. Cut the can alongside the top edge of the strip. Wrap it round one of many pop cans and tape down the end. This technique is much less accurate, so it should only be used if you can not precisely measure the heights of the cans in another manner. Tape the highest edge in place. For each can reduce out one of many strips. Stand the can up on a table top and slide the strip down till it rests on the table.

Step 3: Stretch the bottom can.

The can with the burner gap must match inside of the taller can without ripping it. Rotate it. Twist it. Push it in. Pull it out. Don’t try to stretch the base all at once. Take the third can, which has not been lower down, and work the bottom of it into the opening of the base can. If you’re employed too fast, you’ll spoil the bottom. Stretch out the first 1/2 inch of the opening of the bottom can simply enough to permit the top can to suit inside of it.

The base can will also be stretched be putting it on its facet on top of material that has some give. Place the top of a dowel inside the can. Slide the dowel around the perimeter of the while pushing down, causing the can to roll.

Step 4: Punch holes.

Reduce out every of the strips on page 1 of the template. Wrap the narrower strip around the highest can with the indicated edge of the strip along the cut edge of the can. Wrap the wider strip around the base can with the indicated edge of the strip along the cut edge of the can.

Punch holes as indicated by the marks on each strip. Remove each strip.

Step 5: Minimize teeth in the top can.

The bottom of every gap in the top can must be minimize out with scissors. This will result in a row of “teeth” alongside the cut edge of the can.

Minimize one of many “teeth” shorter than the others. This can make it easier to suit the 2 items collectively.

Step 6: Pre-fit the pieces.

Working from the side reverse the shortest “tooth,” slide the highest piece inside of the bottom piece. Be careful to not cut up the bottom can. Make sure the pieces fit and the holes line up.

Step 7: Epoxy the items together.

The stove will function just fine with out the pieces being epoxied collectively. Epoxying the stove collectively will add to its strength.

Pull the 2 pieces apart, then apply a thin coat of epoxy to each of the “teeth” on the highest can. Working from the side reverse the shortest “tooth,” slide the top piece back into the base, making sure that the holes line up.

Step 8: Fill with fiberglass insulation.

Lower a chunk if fiberglass insulation large enough to fill the bottom of the stove up to the bottom of the holes. Insert the fiberglass insulation inside of the stove. Be careful not to block any of the holes.

You may must trim a number of the fiberglass from the bottom middle of the piece of insulation to permit it to fit over the bump in the underside of the stove. All of the pieces will hold collectively after the stove has been used the first time. If there are thin spots within the insulation, they are often crammed in with scraps.

The stove is full.

The stove should be used with a pot stand and wind screen. The quantity of alcohol needed will range depending on the amount of water being boiled and environmental conditions resembling ambient temperature, water temperature, wind, and many others. Gentle the alcohol. Place the pot stand over the stove. Place the pot on the pot stand. Place the wind screen around the stove. To operate the stove, fill it with 1 ounce of denatured alcohol.

Directions for building a wind display could be found on the web. I staple the joints, and that i punch holes every 1/2 inch. I just like the windscreen design supplied by Sgt. Rock. I make two modifications.

Directions for building a pot stand might be discovered here.

Yet another Pot Stand

The stand might be constructed taller or shorter, however ought to be built to fit inside of your pot when folded. These directions will make a stand 3-1/four inches tall and small sufficient to suit inside of a pot with a 5-1/2 inch diameter.

The stand is constructed with coat hanger wire. Variations within the diameter of coat hanger wire will have an effect on how effectively this pot stand design works.

Materials:

Wire coat hanger.
3/16 inch aluminum tubing, available at pastime retailers. (The precise diameter of the tubing will rely on the gauge of the coat hanger wire. Use the biggest diameter tube that two pieces of hanger wire can’t fit into with out flattening the tube.)
Three spent .22 caliber shells. Epoxy.

Tools:

Pliers.
Wire cutters.
Tube cutter.
Pen.
Ruler.
Scratch paper.
Hammer or vice.

Step 1: Prepare the hanger.

Reduce the hook off of the hanger and straighten the hanger wire.

Step 2: Bending to form.

Make a mark three inches from one finish of the hanger wire.

Utilizing pliers, bend the wire on the mark to about ninety levels.

Make a mark 3 inches from the outside of the bend.

Use pliers to bend the wire at this mark to about ninety degrees.

Measure from the top of the wire to the outside of the primary bend.

Use this measure to mark where to chop the wire so that each legs will be the identical length.

Reduce the wire at this level.

Bend and lower a second piece of wire to match the primary piece.

Reshape each wire pieces so that every angle is slightly more than ninety degrees.

Step 3: Placing it together.

Measure from one end of the wire to the inside of the primary bend. Minimize a chunk of aluminum tubing to this length.

The tubing will must be flattened barely into an oval form. You can flatten it in a vice, or tap it evenly with a hammer down the size of the tube on both sides of the tube.

Insert one end of one piece of wire into the tube till the top of the tube reaches the primary bend within the wire.

Do the identical with the second piece of wire, inserting the top of the wire into the identical end of the tube. It is going to take some effort to get both wires into the tube. The tube ought to hold both wires tightly while allowing them to pivot. Push them all the way in, but not far enough to cause the tip of the tube to flair. The tube will act as a hinge allowing the stand to be folded and unfolded. The ends of the wires ought to both be flush with the end of the tube. This should be a really snug fit.

Step 4: Apply ft.

This step is optionally available. If you have used a heavier coat hanger wire, you’ll have to use a tube larger than 3/16 inch, and a .22 caliber shell foot won’t match over the tube.

Each wire now has one end within the aluminum tube and one finish free. Fill one of many spent .22 caliber shells with epoxy and push the free end of one of the wires into the shell. Let the epoxy set. Take away any excess epoxy.

Do the identical for the opposite free leg.

Using pliers, barely flatten the remaining .22 caliber shell so that it’ll slip over the flattened aluminum tube. Take away any excess epoxy. Fill this shell about 1/2 filled with epoxy, and push the top of the aluminum tube into it. Because the epoxy units, fold and unfold the stand a couple of times to forestall the epoxy from inflicting the wires to grab inside of the aluminum tube.

The pot stand is full.

To make use of the stand, merely unfold it so that the top types two sides of an equilateral triangle.

To pack the stand, fold the legs together and place it in the underside of your pot.

[update] After using this pot stand in the sphere, I have concluded that 1) the ft serve no real function, and 2) the stand is not as stable as I’d have preferred. I’d like to search out one other design that’s as simple and still suits inside my pot when folded down.